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Tips and Techniques.

Click on the small images to view larger images.

This is a great idea and so simple

Dog Watering system

2x150mm end caps
1X150mm tee
2 pieces of 150mm pipe
A rubber grommet for drainage
2 mounting brackets

Iíve been using these for 20 years, they work well
Iíve got them on my utes, 4 wheel bikes and dog crates
You can also put in a screw cap on the tee and add recharge to the water.
Clean more often if you add recharge



From Darrell

Trolley - simple welded frame with two 26" pushbike wheels fitted and a woolpack top lashed on. The tee handle slides in for transport on the truck. The trolley will free stand at about 30 degrees angle for loading pigs with the sag in the woolpack usually making it unnecessary to tie them on. The large wheels make for easy dragging over logs, rocks, bushes, tussocks, etc

Kennels - each kennel consists of a 1 meter square, 1 metre high sleeping area connected to a 4 metre x 1 metre run. In the example shown, five of these kennels have been built side by side. The floor is of concrete slightly sloping to a drain, located outside the doors to the runs, which feeds via a "P" trap into an Otto bin buried so that the lid remains exposed. The Otto bin is used as a small septic tank (shovel any solids in via the lid, hose any remainder in via the drain). Walls and roof of the sleeping areas are also concrete thus collecting warmth from the sun during the day and releasing it at night. Run dividers and doors are of chain mesh with the runs being covered with chicken mesh plus shade cloth. Theory here is that even if something did get to one of the bitches, the only way out would be feet first. All runs open into an 8 metre x 6 metre exercise yard where the dogs are normally left running free during the day while I'm home. Living in town, this was the only arrangement I could find that allowed me to have five dogs without complaints from neighbors.




From Daniel

PIG LIFTER- Is made out of a piece of RHS the height of the rack which is bolted to the bottom of the back upright bar, with a hook at the top to hang the pig on, at about 3/4 the way up the RHS is a handle to pull the spring down (which is off an old garage door) and it is hooked to the front of the rack with a turnbuckle to keep the tension on the spring, on the back upright bar there is a bit of rod welded in an L shape to stop the lifter when it comes back up. Makes lifting big pigs a bit easier.
This can be a very dangerous piece of gear if not handled with care and a bit of common sense. (Make sure you are not leaning over it when using it, if it slips and hits you in the head, not good).


From Dane

Pig Crate/Rack - The most useful and different part of my rack was the slide rail which has a loop on the end so you can slide the pig from the side to the back and swing him up on to the tray and lift onto the pelvic bar, instead of having to lift from low on the outside onto the tray first. The light for dressing swings out to the side and shines over your shoulder. Gal dipped bars, stainless pins, holds 20 pigs.

The crate had a crane that lifts and then lowers the pig through a horizontal sliding door above a separate, one pig section. You untie him on his back and shut the roof door and he stands up. The door between slides to the rear and you hunt him through to his new mates and slide the door closed. Only one pig to deal with at a time when untying them, about the safest method I've seen. Holds up to 10 pigs (depending on size.)

Quick-release: (from Buck): All I use is a solenoid from a starter motor, the size doesn't seem to matter. Just one thing you must use a button switch and inline fuse when wiring up, Not coggle, if left on will burn out .... Follow the photos on how to make your own.

Pig Ties: Each noose goes on one leg and clips to the centre ring. That way when the back legs move the front ropes tighten and vice versa. Thanks to Ricky L from central Qld.

C'mon fellas there should be a lot more great ideas out there.

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mail to: Ian Colley, PO Box 5396, Port Macquarie NSW 2444



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