Tips and Techniques.
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This is a great idea and
Dog Watering system
2x150mm end caps
2 pieces of 150mm pipe
A rubber grommet for drainage
2 mounting brackets
Iíve been using these for 20 years, they work well
Iíve got them on my utes, 4 wheel bikes and dog crates
You can also put in a screw cap on the tee and add recharge to
Clean more often if you add recharge
- simple welded frame with two 26" pushbike wheels fitted and a
woolpack top lashed on. The tee handle slides in for transport
on the truck. The trolley will free stand at about 30 degrees
angle for loading pigs with the sag in the woolpack usually
making it unnecessary to tie them on. The large wheels make for
easy dragging over logs, rocks, bushes, tussocks, etc
- each kennel consists of a 1 meter square, 1 metre high
sleeping area connected to a 4 metre x 1 metre run. In the
example shown, five of these kennels have been built side by
side. The floor is of concrete slightly sloping to a drain,
located outside the doors to the runs, which feeds via a "P"
trap into an Otto bin buried so that the lid remains exposed.
The Otto bin is used as a small septic tank (shovel any solids
in via the lid, hose any remainder in via the drain). Walls and
roof of the sleeping areas are also concrete thus collecting
warmth from the sun during the day and releasing it at night.
Run dividers and doors are of chain mesh with the runs being
covered with chicken mesh plus shade cloth. Theory here is that
even if something did get to one of the bitches, the only way
out would be feet first. All runs open into an 8 metre x 6 metre
exercise yard where the dogs are normally left running free
during the day while I'm home. Living in town, this was the only
arrangement I could find that allowed me to have five dogs
without complaints from neighbors.
Is made out of a piece of RHS the height of the rack which is
bolted to the bottom of the back upright bar, with a hook at the
top to hang the pig on, at about 3/4 the way up the RHS is a
handle to pull the spring down (which is off an old garage door)
and it is hooked to the front of the rack with a turnbuckle to
keep the tension on the spring, on the back upright bar there is
a bit of rod welded in an L shape to stop the lifter when it
comes back up. Makes lifting big pigs a bit easier.
This can be a very dangerous piece of gear if not handled with
care and a bit of common sense. (Make sure you are not leaning
over it when using it, if it slips and hits you in the head, not
- The most useful and different part of my rack was the slide
rail which has a loop on the end so you can slide the pig from
the side to the back and swing him up on to the tray and lift
onto the pelvic bar, instead of having to lift from low on the
outside onto the tray first. The light for dressing swings out
to the side and shines over your shoulder. Gal dipped bars,
stainless pins, holds 20 pigs.
The crate had a
crane that lifts and then lowers the pig through a horizontal
sliding door above a separate, one pig section. You untie him on
his back and shut the roof door and he stands up. The door
between slides to the rear and you hunt him through to his new
mates and slide the door closed. Only one pig to deal with at a
time when untying them, about the safest method I've seen. Holds
up to 10 pigs (depending on size.)
Buck): All I use is a solenoid from a starter
motor, the size doesn't seem to matter. Just one thing you must
use a button switch and inline fuse when wiring up, Not coggle,
if left on will burn out .... Follow the photos on how to make
Each noose goes on one leg and clips to the centre ring. That
way when the back legs move the front ropes tighten and vice
versa. Thanks to Ricky L from central Qld.
C'mon fellas there should be a lot more great ideas out there.
Send in your ideas
and tips to share with us
Email by clicking on contact me button above or
mail to: Ian Colley, PO Box 5396, Port Macquarie NSW 2444